Niacinamide

Introduction

Nicotinamide is the active and water soluble form of vitamin B3 that is used in acne

products. Human bodies do not produce it naturally, so it is one of the vitamins we must obtain

in other ways – in this case, topical application. It was discovered in 1935 and is now on the

World Health Organization’s list of essential medicines. Under INCI (International

Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients) it is known as niacinamide.

Molecular Structure

Nicotinamide is known as pyridine-3-carboxamide under the IUPAC (International

Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry) nomenclature. Pyridine is a ring of five carbons and one

nitrogen that are double bonded together into a flat ring resembling the cyclic compound

benzene. An amide (amino acid) group is attached to this ring along with one double-bonded

oxygen. It is structurally similar to niacin, also known as vitamin B3 , which is renowned for its

skincare benefits.

Physical Properties

Nicotinamide is usually bought in the form of a fine, crystalline, white powder with no

noticeable scent. It has a density of 1.40 g/cm3 . It is soluble in water, ethanol, and glycerol. In

the final products, the pH is usually around 6.0. It has a melting temperature of 129.5º C (265.1º

F) and a boiling point of 334º C (633º F). It has a flash point (temperature at which it will spark

if ignited) of 182º C (359.6º F).

Chemical Properties

Nicotinamide has many health benefits, especially for the skin when applied topically. It

is effective because it is a biologic precursor to two very important chemicals: nicotinamide

adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP+) and adenine dinucleotide (NAD+/NADH). These twocompounds are critical for the processes that cells use to repair damage and propagate. By

providing the skin cells with more nicotinamide, it is thought that the cells can produce more

NADP. It is also thought that nicotinamide applied to the skin can help with the production of

ceramides (a class of lipids that help build up the skin barrier).

Uses

Nicotinamide is a vitamin B supplement and one of the World Health Organization’s list

of essential medicines. It has many benefits, but these can only be obtained via oral or topical

application. In skincare products, it is used topically to treat acne and rosacea (a condition

causing excessive facial redness) due to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial actions. It also

can improve acne, reduce the amount of sebum produced (a yellowy, oilish substance produced

by the skin that causes acne), increase skin hydration by increasing the skin barrier

functionability, minimize the size of large pores, reduce fine lines, improve complexion, and

may reduce the risk of skin cancer.

In one 2013 study, 4% nicotinamide performed just as well if not better than 1%

clindamycin – an antibiotic that is used to treat acne. Further research suggests that 2%

nicotinamide may prevent the skin’s production of oil. When used in this manner, it is used in a

concentration of 1% to 4%. It can be applied both in the morning and at night, though overuse

may result in dryness. In this case, it should only be applied once per day until the dry feeling

goes away. It is preferred over other compounds such as acids, retinoids, and benzoyl peroxide

because it is good for all skin types.

Nicotinamide has also been found to fight free radicals. Free radicals are atoms or

molecules that are extremely reactive due to unpaired valence electrons. These compounds havebeen shown to cause cell and DNA damage. Nicotinamide can prevent this after topical

application by increasing the antioxidant capacity of the skin. Antioxidants can also decrease the

effects of sallowness caused by aging.

Another property is the ability to decrease unwanted pigmentation, age spots, and the

effects of the disease melasma. One study showed that 4% nicotinamide is comparable to 4%

hydroquinone, but with fewer side effects.

Unlike other treatments for oily skin, nicotinamide doesn’t just absorb the excess oil.

Instead, it slows down oil production. Changes are evident after two to four weeks of use. As a

bonus, it can make pores appear smaller as they are no longer clogged with sebum and dead skin.

This in turn makes the skin appear smoother and softer.

Manufacturing

It is naturally found in yeasts, fish, nuts, legumes, and lean meats. On an industrial scale,

it is produced by the hydrolysis of nicotinonitrile or nicotinic acid with the enzyme nitrile

hydratase. The enzyme occurs naturally in Rhodococcus rhodochrous

, a bacteria found in soil.

Using an enzyme instead of other synthesis methods prevents hydrolysis into nicotinic acid.

Alternatives

Nicotinamide is a very complex substance. As a result, there are no good alternatives.

Panthenol (vitamin B5 ) can play some of the same roles. Depending on what you are trying to

achieve, some botanical extracts can also be substituted. Niacin has a very similar sounding

name and is easier to find at the drugstore. However, niacin will cause redness and other side

effects that nicotinamide/niacinamide will not. Unlike vitamin C and retinols, which are touted to

have similar properties, nicotinamide is non-acidic and non-irritating.

StorageNicotinamide should be stored in a cool, dry place away from alkalis, strong acids, and

oxidizing agents. If it reacts with oxidizers, it may form carbon monoxide and nitrous oxides

(NOx ), both of which are dangerous if inhaled. The container should be tightly sealed and kept

out of direct sunlight.

Safety

Nicotinamide is not recommended to treat acne in pregnant women. In the event that it

gets in the eyes, flush with water for fifteen minutes after removing contacts (if present and easy

to do so). In the event that irritation persists, seek medical attention. When using this product,

wear an N95, KN95, KF94, P1 or other particulate filtering mask to avoid inhaling dust, as it can

cause irritation in the lungs. If ingested, do not induce vomiting. Call your local poison control

center for guidance. Always read the MSDS (manufacturer’s safety data sheet) before working

with a product you are unfamiliar with.