Behentrimonium Methosulfate – BTMS 50
BTMS-50 is an emulsifying wax. It is most often used in conditioners because it leaves
behind hair that is soft, silky, and easy to comb. The first part of the name is an abbreviation for
the INCI name: behentrimonium methosulfate. The 50 in the second part of the name comes
from the fact that only 50% of it is active. The other half is made up of cetyl alcohol and
butylene glycol.
Introduction to BTMS – 50
BTMS-50 is an emulsifying wax. It is most often used in conditioners because it leaves
behind hair that is soft, silky, and easy to comb. The first part of the name is an abbreviation for
the INCI name: behentrimonium methosulfate. The 50 in the second part of the name comes
from the fact that only 50% of it is active. The other half is made up of cetyl alcohol and
butylene glycol. It is a natural product made from vegetable oils and is easy to work with. It can
be used as the sole active ingredient in a product or in tandem with other emulsifying agents.
Molecular Structure of BTMS 50
Under the current IUPAC (International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry) naming
conventions, BTMS-50 is also known as docosyl(trimethyl)azanium; methyl sulfate. The first
part of the name indicates that there is a chain of twenty-three carbons that are single bonded in
one unbranched line. This in turn is attached to the positively charged azanium ion. The common
name for azanium is ammonium. The azanium ion consists of a single nitrogen atom with a plus
one positive charge that is bonded to three hydrogens. The next part, methyl sulfate, is a sulfate
ion with a methyl (single carbon) attached to it. The sulfate is an anion, which makes it
negatively charged. The sulfate’s negative charge is attracted to the azanium’s positive one,
bonding them ionically.
Inactive Ingredients in BTMS 50
BTMS-50 is not a pure active ingredient. Instead, it contains half behentrimonium
methosulfate and half stabilizing agents. These two inactive ingredients are cetyl alcohol and
butylene glycol. Cetyl alcohol was originally derived from sperm whale oil. However, it is now
produced using palm oil. It consists of a chain of sixteen carbons with a hydroxyl group on the
end. The name ‘cetyl’ references the fact that it was originally found in whales, the Latin wordfor which is ‘cetus.’ Butylene glycol or butane-1,3-diol is a water-soluble alcohol with four
carbons and two hydroxyl or alcohol groups.
Physical Properties of BTMS 50
BTMS-50 is a white, waxy substance at room temperature. It melts at 60º C (140º F). It is
an organic (carbon based) compound and therefore only soluble in oil. In the final product, the
pH ranges from 5.0 to 7.0, so it is safe for skin and hair. In its unaltered form, it has a distinct
odor that has been described as fishlike. However, this odor is not noticeable in products with
concentrations of up to 15%. It can be purchased in the form of small pellets, beads, or flakes.
Uses of BTMS 50
In the beauty industry, BTMS-50 is primarily used for shampoos and conditioners due to
its ability to leave hair soft and silky, reduce flyaways, and add spring all without causing
irritation. This is due to the fact that it is an adsorbent, which means that it creates a thin coating
on top of skin and hair – the property most desirable in hair conditioners. It can be used in
rinse-off and leave-on products. When used in skincare products, it resists wash off. Instead, it
leaves behind a soft powdery feel.
Though it is insoluble in water, it is also used as an emulsifying agent in scrubs and
lotions. Emulsifiers help blend the water and oil based ingredients so they don’t separate in
transport or before use. BTSM-50 is also sometimes used to emulsify silicon in hair conditioners.
This property helps keep conditioners and other products smooth and creamy instead of
separating. In lotions, it can be used to increase viscosity. This prevents the lotion from
becoming runny or watery. It can also be used in anhydrous systems – products that do not
contain water or that are oil-based. Another use of this substance is in detanglers. It is very goodat detangling hair without damaging it. In most products, it is used at a rate of one to ten percent.
Because it is not water soluble, it must be added in the heated oil phase.
Manufacturing of BTMS 50
BTMS-50 is made from the oil of the colva plant, which is more commonly known as
rapeseed. It is taken in the form of a quaternary salt of ammonium. The term ‘quaternary’ as it is
used here refers to the fact that the nitrogen in the ammonium is surrounded by four carbon
chains. Quaternary ammoniums are also sometimes referred to as ‘quaternary amines.’ The term
salt doesn’t mean table salt but an ionic compound consisting of positively and negatively
charged molecules.
Alternatives to BTMS 50
In the event that you do not have any BTMS-50, there are many substitutions available.
Keep in mind that substitutes may not achieve the same level of effect that BTMS-50 does.
BTMS-25 has the same active ingredient, but a lesser percentage of it is active. BTMC
(behentrimonium chloride) is similar, but contains no stabilizing agents and is not as soft on the
skin. Other substitutes like Emulsense HC or Varisoft EQ 65 have a very narrow range of pH.
Emulsifying agents that are not cations/positively charged will not condition hair at all and
should be avoided in hair products.
How to store BTMS 50?
BTSM-50 should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry place inside of a tightly closed
container. In this condition, it will keep for up to two years as it is very shelf stable. If stored at
temperatures above 32º Celsius (90º Fahrenheit) it will coagulate.
SafetyIf it comes into prolonged contact with skin in its pure form (not mixed with other
ingredients) it can cause irritation. If any gets in the eyes, immediately rinse with water for
fifteen minutes after removing contacts as prolonged exposure can cause eye damage. In the
event that irritation persists, seek medical attention. It has a flash point over 200º C. In some
cases, it may float on water and should therefore be treated as a grease fire. If ingested, do not
induce vomiting. Instead, seek medical attention immediately. Always read the MSDS
(Manufacturer’s safety data sheet) before working with chemicals that you are unfamiliar with
Products made with BTMS 50
Shampoo bar recipe with Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil – Sulphate Free – Sulfate free – zero waste
Squalene Conditioner Bar Recipe – Easy Conditioner Bar Recipe – Zero waste living
Rose Conditioner Bar Recipe – Zero Waste Living – Solid Conditioner Bar Recipe
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